No one has gone to Moorea for its nightlife since the One Chicken Inn, Moorea's colorful version of Quinn's infamous Tahitian-style bar in Papeete, bit the dust in Pao Pao more than 2 decades ago. The island's evening entertainment is now limited to the hotels, with a few exceptions. Remember that the hotels' schedules change, so do your detective work. Call ahead before striking out. Most charge 7,500CFP to 8,500CFP ($75-$85) per person for dinner and a Tahitian dance show.

Not to be missed is Tiki Theatre Village (tel. 55.02.50) in Haapiti, 2km (1 1/4 miles) west of the Club Med, which stages the island's most authentic feast and dance show on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. They pick you up from your hotel and deposit you on the beach for a rum punch and sunset. After the staff uncovers the earth oven, they take you on a tour of the village. A buffet of both Tahitian and Western foods is followed by an energetic 1 1/2-hour dance show with some of the most elaborate yet traditional costumes to be seen in French Polynesia. The performers can number more than 70 if overseas troupes are visiting the island. The dinner and show cost 7,500CFP ($75) per person, or you can come for the 9pm show for 3,500CFP ($35). Add 1,150CFP ($12) in either case for round-trip transportation.

Chez Billy (tel. 56.43.82), on the beach west of Hotel Moorea Village in Haapiti, offers a chance to dance, drink, and occasionally fight with the locals on Friday and Saturday nights. Billy kicks off at 8pm and roars on into the wee hours. Expect to pay a 1,000CFP ($10) cover charge and 350CFP ($3.50) and up for drinks.

Sunsets with Muk at Club Bali Hai--If I'm on Moorea, you'll find me beside Cook's Bay at the Club Bali Hai (tel. 56.13.68) swapping yarns with Muk McCallum, one of the original Bali Hai Boys, Thursday to Tuesday between 5:30 and 7:30pm. The club no longer has a bar, so you'll have to bring your own drinks (Muk usually hauls out a bucket of ice). This is one of the great vistas in the South Pacific; you'll want to become a modern Paul Gauguin in order to capture the changing colors as the sunset paints the bay, sky, and the jagged mountains. Club Bali Hai also has a Tahitian dance show, usually on Wednesday night.